Chablis Evolution

Chablis typically finds itself at the far end of a Chardonnay-lover's evolution: One typically begins with fruity, powerful oak monsters, moves on to more detailed yet still round-and-ripe California-style bottlings, heads in the direction of white Burgundy, and then, finally, dips a tentative tongue into the taut wines of Chablis.

For all the time it takes to get there, though, a wine-lover’s first great Chablis experience is often a paradigm-shifting one, and therefore worth the wait: The purity of expression, the clarity of the terroir, the cleanliness of the juice: All of these conspire to make great Chablis among the best white wines in the world.

The problem, however, is one that makes so many would-be Franco-oenophiles nervous: The details. From the seven legendary grands crus to the technically lesser yet still often magnificent premiers crus all the way down to regional wines, Chablis has always posed a problem for consumers. (So has the confusion, at least on this side of the Pond, between real Chablis and the oversized handles of California “chablis,” a laboratory concoction that bears as much resemblance to the real deal from Northern Burgundy as, say, the poor hapless fellow who performed “Pants on the Ground” in this past season’s “American Idol” does to Pavarotti.)

Still, for all the confusion and misinformation associated with it, Chablis is a part of the wine world worth knowing and learning about, especially now.

This past weekend, The San Francisco Chronicle ran an article on recent developments in the region, and noted that, despite the longstanding primacy of the seven grands crus in Chablis, “in a region ruled by terroir, things are becoming more complicated.

Standout wines are appearing from more humble sites. And new talents are appearing in a region whose top names are so established that the war memorial in Chablis' town square reads like a wine list.”

Not only are new producers finding their way onto the Chablis scene, but they are slowly shifting perception of what’s possible throughout the region, no matter how famous or humble a particular piece of land might be: Some producers are starting to pull back on their use of oak in the GC bottlings, terroir-specific wines are being bottled even from non-grand cru or -premier cru parcels of land, and organic viticulture is on the rise.

Chablis, then, is one of the most interesting regions in the French wine world right now. It may be confusing, but the effort required to unravel its mysteries--both ancient and modern--is more than worth it.

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Chablis Pairing, and A Big Award for Trinchero

The farmers markets here in Philadelphia have lately been full of the kind of hearty, leafy greens that make such perfect seasonal salads in the autumn. Baskets of apples and pears overflow at every turn. The smell of fireplaces sparking to life colors the morning air. And contrary to what you might think, this is the perfect time of year for a crisp white wine like Chablis.

Not all white wines are the same. Some, like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, are pitch perfect for the spring and summer, their tropical, citric, and fresh-cut-grass notes elegantly mirroring the scents of the season. But now, as something smokier and more bracing comes into the air, is the time for Chablis.

Wine Spectator recently posted a very good video on pairing salad with Chablis, and this seems like the right time of year to consider what they have to say. Click here to watch.

And on the news front, Wine Enthusiast Magazine has named Trinchero the American Winery of the Year. According to a press release, “Trinchero Family Estates is being recognized for leading sustainable winegrowing and producing a diverse portfolio of more than 22 award-winning wines that represent quality and value.” The full text is available here.

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Tasting Terroir?

From Champagne to Chablis to Priorat, the concept of minerality in wine is both a constant and difficult-to-quantify one. Lovers of Priorat, for example, often note a sense of the mineral in the wines. When it comes to Chardonnay, few places can match Chablis in this department. Indeed, even if you have a hard time pinpointing exactly what it is that seems so mineral in these wines, the slightest perception of it alone can have a huge impact on your experience.

But where does it come from? This is a question that has vexed wine experts for some time now. Several years ago, The New York Times T Magazine ran an article on it (click here for the link), which prompted Rajat Parr, one of the top sommeliers in America, to pen a rebuttal (available here).

Eventually, all the hubbub died down. Now, however, it appears ready to pop into popular wine discussion again. Decanter.com recently reported that, “Scientists in Oregon are challenging the notion that terroir can be detected in a wine.”

The news item continued, “As part of a study into vineyard soils, geologists meeting in Portland for this year's Geological Society of America conference concluded that the French gout de terroir—translated literally as 'taste of the soil'—probably isn't caused by minerals found in the vineyard.”

Whatever you believe, it’s interesting food for thought this weekend. My recommendation is to ponder both sides while sipping a nice glass of Chablis. Or Champagne. Or Priorat.

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