Second Labels

So-called second-label bottlings of great wines are nothing new. And, in fact, they make perfect sense: They’re a great way for producers to make the most out of less-than-perfect fruit, or of their vines that are just too young to plumb the depths of profundity that their more mature ones do. From a consumer’s standpoint, they often afford the opportunity to experience the general character of a great wine without the necessity of spending all the money that the big brother requires, or giving the juice as long a repose in the cellar before it’s ready to be enjoyed.

What is new, however, is the price being asked for some of these second labels, most notably Carruades de Lafite. According to a recent news item on Decanter.com, “Carruades 2008 is still at around £1,000 [per case], but it is predicted to keep climbing closer to the other first growths once in bottle.

“Gary Boom, managing director of Bordeaux Index, told decanter.com, ‘Today a case of Carruades 2004 would set you back £1800, which is considerably more than the £1650 you would pay for a case of Mouton 2004.

“‘And this for a wine that cost around £280 at initial release. The 2008 may not climb as high as the firsts, but it is likely to go higher than Cos and the other Super Seconds.’”

So the question is this: Is the second wine of Chateau Lafite worth as much as, or more than, a bottle of top Second Growth like Cos d’Estournel, Leoville-Barton, or Pichon-Lalande or –Baron? Or, for that matter, a top Fifth Growth like Lynch-Bages?

It’s a tough call, and, like so much in the world of wine, a matter of personal taste. I’ve personally found that my preference is vintage-specific. For example, a recent bottle of 1996 Lynch-Bages was absolutely wonderful, but comparing it to the 2000 Carruades (opened at the same dinner) is unfair to both, since the latter was just starting to develop, even 9 years after the fruit was picked. It will be singing in another five to ten years. And give me a Leoville-Barton anytime and I’ll be a happy man.

So, really, it comes down to this: Drink what you love, try wines that you haven’t had before, and keep in mind that every vintage is different. And always look for opportunities to taste wines that are too young, at their peak, and slightly over the hill. It’s the best way to start building a sense of context for everything you taste, and you never know when you’ll find your next favorite bottling.

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The Two Pichons: My Wines of the Tasting

Choosing a favorite wine from a tasting like this one is like trying too…well, choose a favorite wine from a tasting like this one. Logical statement? Not terribly. But with truly great wine, logic often takes a back seat to emotion.

Which is all to say that it’s impossible to pick a favorite wine. This, after all, was an afternoon of standouts. That having been said, though, the Pichon-Lalande 1989 and the Pichon-Baron 1990 made my heart (and tastebuds) do some pretty amazing dancing. (In a good way, of course.)

The Lalande showed a nose that can only be described as warm, with deep notes of toast, warm vanilla, aromatic brown spices, hints of peppercorns, and a perfume that reminded me of a perfectly roasted beet terrine with walnuts (we can’t always control what we experience with wine!). The palate, on the other hand, had a freshness that I wasn’t expecting. Strawberries and kirsch remained surprisingly light on their feet, and the wine as a whole found a superb balance between sweetness, depth, density, elegance, and power.

The Baron, on the other hand, played it closer to the vest. It smelled of perfume-y fruit, truffles, and a well-defined minerality, as well as undertones of meat and superripe and grilled green bell peppers. The acid, tannins, fruit, and earth elements were all perfectly integrated on the palate—this was unquestionably a wine at its peak—and flavors of kirsch and coffee lingered on for a hauntingly long period of time.

So while picking a single favorite was impossible, these two showed exactly why older Bordeaux remains one of the classic examples of the glories of French wine. And, as a pair, they represent why a tasting like this one is so instructive and downright delicious.

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Wine-Central

For the past couple of months, Uncork Life! has been updated several times a week with wine reviews, accounts of great meals, videos, and more. Now you have the chance to get all the news—albeit in shorter form—even more often. Go to Twitter and sign up to follow “WineUpdate” for regular posts from all over the wine world. Then visit UncorkLife.com for full write-ups, videos, and even more in-depth coverage. We are working to become your one-stop source for the best that the world of wine has to offer.

Right now, I’m on my way up to New York for a tasting of Chateau Pichon-Baron (the grand vin is officially called Chateau Longueville au Baron de Pichon-Longueville) and Chateau Pichon-Lalande (officially Chateau Pichon-Longueville, Comtesse de Lalande). Quite a mouthful, to be sure, but so are the wines—both renowned and highly-sought-after Second Growths.

I’ll be tasting side-by-side examples from both chateaux’s 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001, and 2000 vintages, as well as Pichon-Lalande 1989, 1985, and 1975, and Pichon-Baron 1990 and 1985. Check back here later this week for a full accounting and video of the wines, and follow the updates on Twitter today as I post live from the restaurant.

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