Thursday, June 18, 2009

A Monumental Grüner Veltliner

One of my other favorite wines of the Wachau is the Grüner Veltliner Kellerberg 2007 from the legendary F.X. Pichler. This gold-colored wine greets you with a sense of warmth and ripeness on the nose and a subtle whiff of petrol, as well as an almost lactic creaminess that’s perfectly balanced with more linear notes. Balance is the key here, and it follows through to a concentrated, toasted-peppercorn-singing mid-palate that just keeps on unfolding like some sort of gorgeous, vinous flower. The dense texture here is nothing short of amazing, and maintains its grip for what seems like forever. It’s fantastic right now, but promises to be even better in 10 to 15 years or more. Yet again, here is a world-renowned Austrian producer that has exceeded even its own lofty reputation. A truly magnificent wine, and a great expression of the Wachau.


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