Valentine's Day with Bollinger Brut Rosé

It’s Valentine’s Day, which for many people means spending hours gazing lovingly into the eyes of their loved ones, “Unchained Melody” playing softly in the back of their head like some sort of cupid-y soundtrack, and uttering phrases more suited to Hallmark cards than real human conversation.

But for me, it means Champagne.

Don’t get me wrong here: I plan on sharing a bottle with my wife, and probably even rubbing a bit of it on my daughter’s lips--because, after all, Champagne is always meant to be shared with those you care about and love. (And, in my 10-week-old daughter’s case, it’s never too early to get her to appreciate good Champagne.) Personally, though, Valentine’s Day is a fantastic annual excuse to pop the cork on a bottle of bubbly and pair it with something special.

Tonight, then, I’ll be cooking up something with lobster and mushrooms, probably a risotto, and enjoying a bottle of Bollinger Brut Rosé, a consistently excellent wine that seems custom-made for this day.

Laser-point bubbles, delicate lacing, and a beautiful burnished salmon color make this wine intensely appealing before you even take a sip. The first sniff from the glass is enough to remind you both why Bollinger is among the most revered of the top houses, as well as the intrinsic and multi-faceted benefits of rosé Champagne in general. It speaks of some sort of perfect bakery first thing in the morning, just as the strawberry-filled pastries are coming out of the oven. There are candied cherries in there too, as well as a bass-note of pie crust. These are supremely evocative; you just want to keep smelling them. When you do finally take a sip, the house-typical creaminess is cut by beautifully balanced acidity, tiny farmers’ market strawberries, and cherries. It manages to be both bright and deep at the same time, eliciting notes of minerals, lead pencil, and subtle fruit, though the fruit of the palate is less sweet and pronounced than the overall impression of the nose--a very appealing bookend.

Drinking this well, and sharing it with the two ladies of the house on our first Valentine’s Day as a family? What a perfect way to celebrate the holiday.

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Wine Review Wednesday: Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte

Three months ago, way back in May, we kicked off the summer here by discussing appropriate bubblies for the Memorial Day weekend. Now that Labor Day is approaching, and with it the end of summer, I thought this would be a good time to bring things full circle and finish off the season with a bang. Or, rather, with a pop.

This is not a coincidence: Champagne, as I’ve noted here a thousand times before, is a wine for all seasons and for every occasion. And while most consumers still insist on reserving the festive pop of a Champagne cork for special, celebratory moments, great bubbly is one of the most versatile wines in the world, and should be considered in the same context as still wine in terms of when to open a bottle.

Which is to say, all the time.

From a food-pairing standpoint, few wines are more versatile than Champagne. The bubbles cut right through fat and oil, the nuttiness of a nicely aged bottle pairs perfectly with deep-fried foods, and the generally high acid allows Champagne to partner with virtually everything on the table throughout the year.

I recently had the chance to taste two bottlings from the always-excellent Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte, and though they exist at opposite ends of the sparkling spectrum from one another, they both possessed exactly the sort of qualities that make them optimal choices as we slide into the holiday weekend.

The Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé smells like nothing so much as a perfect breakfast of toast with strawberry jam, a handful of red cherries and other red berry fruit, and a touch of cream. That berry fruit follows through to the palate, though here with an added note of pastry, in the guise of some sort of perfect berry cobbler. The texture is creamy, the finish practically vibrates in its brightness, the fruit is clear and well-defined, and there’s just the slightest complicating hint of underbrush on the finish. Great balance and a sense of exuberance make this bottle perfect for the holiday weekend.

The Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Blanc de Blancs 2004, on the other hand, is a Champagne cut from a different mold. Its nose of graham cracker, toasted Jewish apple cake and cheese cake, warm hazelnuts, and ripe seckel pears evoke a more autumnal feeling: Perfect, again, for this transitional time of year. Still, the palate shows classically bright blanc de blancs acidity and a marvelous structure, the fruit bursting with orange, fresh lime, green apple, and a nod in the direction of Creamsicle. It has a lot of time left to keep on evolving, but it’s drinking beautifully right now. The finish sings with lemon and mandarin orange peel, and the Chardonnay’s minerality and transparency are on full display throughout. I’d buy several to follow over the next 10+ years.

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Wine Review Wednesday: Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace Brut Rose'

This is yet another great example of the extraordinary sparkling wines that are produced throughout France, and a perfect bubbly for the foods of the season, too. The nose is rich with aromas of ripe cherries, homemade strawberry jam, and the slightest hint, surprisingly, of tarragon hovering in the background. The palate sings with more ripe red cherries, wet stones, and something a touch smoky. All of this is brought to even more vivid life with a singing acidity that’s both bright and perfectly balanced. I almost want to have a barbecue this afternoon for no other reason than to throw some salmon on the grill to enjoy alongside this. What a well-crafted, thoroughly gulpable wine. Pinot Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc.

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Weekend Wine

Some weeks, the stars align just right--the universe, we could say, decides to throw me a bone--and I have the very good fortune to taste wines that remind me exactly what makes this juice so special, and so different from anything else we can drink.

As I reported here on Tuesday, Monday evening’s Wine Media Guild dinner afforded me the opportunity to taste everything from Grand Cru white Burgundy and 60-year-old white Port to 1994 Jordan and Cos d’Estournel--and a whole bunch of great bottles in between.

Wednesday night, at the Wine Chateau Piscataway store, was the first of what hopefully will be many Sip and Twit tastings. Over the course of those three hours, we sampled five different bottlings from Iron Horse, including the Classic Vintage Brut 2005, Wedding Cuvee 2006, Unoaked Chardonnay 2007, Estate Chardonnay 2008, and Estate Pinot Noir 2007.

Then, last night, my wife and I enjoyed dinner with close friends, and Miguel Lecuona (who writes the fantastic City Wine Journal), brought along some seriously delicious treats, including a Chateau Palmer 1970, Chateau Latour à Pomerol 2001, and Chateau d’Yquem 1995.

I didn’t want to brush my teeth when I got home.

But the weekend is almost here, the temps are expected to rise, and the time, it seems, has arrived to start thinking about what to drink as the end of the work-week rolls around.

Personally, I’m a big believer in popping the corks--or unscrewing the caps--on bottles that are fun, relatively straightforward, and pair well with the foods of the season.

My friend Ben Weinberg, an internationally published wine writer, focuses on the wines of the season in the latest installment of his newsletter Unfiltered, Unfined. In this issue, he notes that summer is almost here, and the “change of seasons seems to alter other elements of life, as well. Meals tend to be quick and light and our beverages follow suit. Wine is no different, and an important part of vinous enjoyment is cracking open bottles that particularly complement warm weather, lighter food, and long, outdoor evenings.”

He goes on to recommend everything from solid sparklers to popular but still-underappreciated rosés to reds that will work wonders as the mercury climbs. Both Ben’s specific recommendations and the guiding philosophies behind them are excellent, and should really get you thinking about what to open this weekend.

Take a look, pop some corks, and enjoy the next couple of days off.

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Season of the Pink...A Month Early!

Summertime has arrived a bit earlier than expected this year--especially here on the east coast. In fact, it’s approached 90 degrees the past couple of days here in Philadelphia--enough to make me desperate to pop the cork on a bottle of rosé.

I didn’t expect to mention these warm-weather charmers quite this early in the season, but now is as appropriate a time as any to do so. And, apparently, The Washington Post had the same idea, as they recently ran a nice warm-up story on rosés by Dave McIntyre. He did, however, point out one negative aspect of the wines’ growing popularity:

“Increased demand has resulted in a wider selection, but popularity comes with a price,” McIntyre wrote. “The dollar's continued weakness against the euro also puts pressure on price. French rosés that just a few years ago sold for under $10 have in recent vintages crept into the $15 neighborhood. That's a significant hike. I...[suggest looking] for rosés from Chile and Argentina, where some bargains around $10 can be found.”

Of course, it has to be noted that, though a price increase from $10 to $15 certainly is significant, this is still relatively inexpensive wine we’re talking about here. And that’s very important to keep in mind: Rosé is all about finding the liquid equivalent of summertime’s pleasures, which, even at $15, is pretty easy to do. (And, for the record, there are still plenty of $10 French bottlings, too.)

Which is all to say that now, as rosé season is upon us, start stocking up on them. My strategy has always been to put together a nice mixed case of wines from Argentina, France, Spain, California, and Australia. I don’t limit myself to these countries throughout the season, but it’s a good place to start: A case like that one is likely to provide close to the full range of rosé styles, flavor profiles, and weights.

For more on rosé, and links to some helpful articles on them, click here. And then run out and get that case. It’s hot outside, and you cannot possibly live on iced tea alone.

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More Good News for Rosé

I’ve written about rosé here before--rather recently, in fact, in one of my lead-up-to-the-holiday blogs--so the timing of yesterday’s story on the Wine Spectator’s web site is perfect. They report that “A new study by the Nielsen Company released by the Provence Wine Council shows a 28 percent jump in imported rosé sales in the United States in the past year—a category led by France (with 28 percent of the world's rosé production) and specifically, Provence. The growth in imported rosé sales is nearly eight times faster than the overall growth of wine sales in the U.S., and according to Nielsen, it's part of a trend that's been accelerating for the five years the company has measured rosé consumption.”

Wine journalists and other professionals have been lauding the uptick in rosé’s popularity for years. Once the warm weather rolls around, all of the magazines and blogs will surely run their annual reports on just that. And, surely, readers of this blog will find themselves at a café that first sunny day in April or May surrounded by sweat-beaded glasses of pink wine.

But what makes this article so interesting is both the timing (in the dead of winter--certainly not rosé-reporting season) and the content (hard numbers that back up what we’ve all suspected for years).

So where is all of this going? My prediction is that, while affordable, quaffable rosé will continue to grow in popularity and consumption, we will see a contemporaneous market arise for pricey, so-called “serious” bottlings. Whether this will prove to be a positive development remains to be seen. Rosé, after all, has traditionally been about food-friendly, easy-drinking, affordable wines, not bottles that demand a lot of money and time in the cellar (they really need none of the latter).

Predictions aside, though, this growth in the rosé market is a great thing for the wine business itself and for consumers. The more rosé available, after all--and the more that consumers all over the world are willing to try and fall in love with something new to them (like rosé)--the better it is for all of us. A more diverse wine world, after all, is a far more interesting one.

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Rosés from Provence: Perfect for the Holidays

Rosé, now that it has finally broken through the American wine-drinking consciousness as a serious option for serious consumers--it’s no longer seen in the same light as sweet, simple white zinfandel, thank goodness--has one more hurdle left to surmount: The perception that it is strictly a warm-weather treat.

Fans of rosé know very well that it is one of the great treats of the spring and summer; indeed, the arrival of the new vintage each year symbolizes the coming change in season as well as a sunny forecast by the TV weatherman. And, yes, there are few moments as charming and as evocative as nibbling on, say, a salade niçoise at a sidewalk cafe table while a glass of rosé gently sweats before you.

But to limit your rosé consumption strictly to the warm-weather months is to miss out on one of the top pleasures of the wine world the rest of the year.

Here, then, I’d like to make a suggestion: That you consider rosé right now, in the dead of winter. It may go against common practice, sure, but lots of worthwhile things do.

Right now, as the days are just about as short as they’ll be until next winter, we all could use a little sunshine. And few things provide it in such abundance as a bright glass of rosé. The fruit, the acid, the quaffability: It’s all there, and perfectly appropriate for the season in exactly the opposite way that rich reds are.

Then there’s the food-pairing part. For this gluttonous time of year--with fried potato latkes for Hanukkah and hearty hams for Christmas and who-knows-what-abominable-combinations on New Years Eve--my money is with rosé and Champagne in the pairing department. Few wines offer the same level of versatility at the table as these two.

Great rosé is made all over the world, from Europe to South America to the United States and beyond. Exploring examples from all of these places is bound to be a rewarding and delicious endeavor. Still, though, rosé finds its ancestral homeland of sorts--and one of its greatest expressions--in Provence.

I recently had the opportunity to taste a number of excellent examples from that famed French countryside, and was blown away by the range and quality of them. What really amazed me, though, was the ability of many of them to last (and, indeed, evolve) well beyond the point at which they are traditionally “supposed to be consumed.” In fact, it’s a good idea to look for successive vintages of Provençal rosés: Tasting a young one alongside a bottle that’s slightly more mature is educational in the most delicious way possible. And the slightly older ones, with their more pronounced earth and spice notes, provide a whole added layer of complexity with which to pair heartier holiday-season foods. That kind of versatility is awfully hard to beat.

Here are my tasting notes for a handful of standout rosés from Provence. Keep in mind, though, that this list is far from exhaustive, and that there are all kinds of rosé treasures out there right now, just waiting to be plucked from shelves.

Chateau du Rouët Coeur Esterelle Rosé 2008 - The color here is a beautiful light salmon that’s almost autumnal in hue. Hints of flowers and underbrush on the nose lead to flavors of red berry fruit, spice, and something just the slightest bit herbal. The fact that some of the fruit has fallen away at this point is actually a benefit, as the underlying complexity really has the chance to shine through. Excellent.

Rimauresq Selections Rosé Classique Cru Classé 2008 and 2007 - Fresh, springlike aromas and a burst of peach precede a palate more concentrated and slightly more powerful than the Coeur Esterelle. This 2008 tastes of peppercorn, spice, and garrigue, and shows more linearity than the previous one. The 2007, on the other hand, gives evidence of its extra bottle-age in its more amber-toned color, as well as in the mushroom and dried fruits and flowers of the nose. The palate of the 2007 is far creamier than the 2008, with unexpected hints of caramel and chocolate, all of it lifted by excellent acidity.

Rimauresq Selections Petit Rimauresq Rosé 2008 - Summertime notes of watermelon jump from the glass, buttressed by rhubarb and a creamy sense of richness that make this appropriate for the heartier dishes of the holiday season, or, really, with nothing else at all--just a glass and a half-hour to savor it.

Cellier Saint Sidoine Cuvée Entre Coeur Rosé Coste Brulade 2008 - Classic pink color and a nose so quiet it almost whispers give little indication of how complex this wine really is. It tastes of marzipan and sesame paste with brioche, wild strawberries, and spice, all of it balanced and subtle and calling out for food to enjoy alongside it.

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Big New House: Time to Celebrate!

This is a big weekend for WineChateau.com as it marks the Grand Opening of the new, stunning 10,000-square-foot store in Piscataway, New Jersey. And, in true WineChateau.com fashion, this gorgeous location is about so much more than just the amazing selection of wine. Because the space itself will allow the team to offer you not only the same legendary service you’ve come to expect both in-person and online, but also a brand new shopping experience.

I’ll be writing more about the new store and the Grand Opening next week, but for now, take a look at the review below. I thought that today would be an appropriate day for it, simply because of its name—Big House wine, big new house for WineChateau.com. What could be better?

Big House Pink 2008
While the blend here is certainly unusual, the wine itself is nothing short of charming. Syrah, Charbono, Grenache, Tannat, Zinfandel, Barbera, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese come together to create a harmonious, spicy, raspberry- and watermelon-scented California rosé. Flavors range from the expected (peppercorn, dried Mediterranean herbs) to the surprising (cooked rice, caramel). All of it, though, works beautifully. And while it may be getting a bit late in the season to think about rosé as much as you did back in July, this mouth-filling beauty has enough richness and structure to work perfectly throughout the year.

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Holiday Weekend Wine

As we head into the holiday weekend, this is the perfect time to talk about the versatility of wine. Because despite the fact that the 4th of July is typically considered a beer-ier occasion—hot dogs, hamburgers, potato salad, and the rest—I’ve always had better luck pairing my lazy summer days with grapes than grains.

Now don’t get me wrong: I love a cold, crisp beer in the summer’s heat. But given my druthers, I’d take a cool rosé or a bottle of cold, sweaty-glass Vinho Verde every time. Because the truth is that fun, interesting white wines—from Godello to Verdejo to Albariño to all kinds of other things that might not be terribly familiar—offer all the pleasure of cold beer and bring to the table (so to speak) a whole range of pairing options (not to mention unexpected flavors and aromas, too) that you otherwise wouldn’t have.

And those wines are just for lighter dishes and drinking on their own. Just because it’s 4th of July weekend, after all, doesn’t mean that you can’t indulge in something a bit more hearty. Ever tried spare ribs and Zinfandel? Or slow-cooked pork and a Tempranillo-based blend? Or Malbec and a burger? (And if you’re lucky enough to find really fatty ground meat, spring for a Cahors—it’s based on the Malbec grape, but its relationship to its Argentinean sibling is analogous to the one between, say, a gently prepared slice of veal and a grilled rib-eye. Think of Cahors as Argentinean Malbec’s older, brawnier brother.)

Even traditionally wintertime wines have a place this weekend. My favorite trick is to throw a bit of a chill on a bottle of ruby or tawny port—just a couple of degrees; too much and it’ll taste terrible—and pair it either with whatever chocolate- or nut-based dessert you’re enjoying (chocolate pecan pie and dried fruit would be great alongside a tawny), or even (it’s a holiday weekend, after all) a good, spicy cigar.

It’s Independence Day: Celebrate your right to drink what you want this holiday weekend, regardless of beer’s traditional role. And there’s no better way to do that than with a great selection of wine, friends and family, and, hopefully, clear skies and warm temperatures.

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Rosé Season...At Last!

Summer is finally here, which means one thing: It's time for rosé! Take a look at the video below for my review of the Pietra Santa Rosato 2008.

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Rosé Uproar

With the warmer weather of the season here, the time has come to start drinking rosé in earnest. Personally, I’m likely to go through my typical two cases over the next couple of months—and that’s just my at-home consumption with friends, family, and on my own.

That’s the way it is with rosé—its fresh fruit, crisp acidity, and supremely easy drinkability make it the perfect wine for the season.

But this year, this summer, this usually unassuming wine is experiencing a bit of the spotlight…and not necessarily in the best way. Much has been made recently about the new proposed European Union regulations that will allow rosé to be made by blending red and white, and the uproar has been loud indeed. It’s even broken out of the traditional wine media and into the pages of major newspapers; the New York Times, for example, ran a column today about it.

It’s not often that the wine world finds itself in such an uproar over production regulations, but this one seems to have struck a nerve. Will this have as big an impact as its protesters fear? How will it all play out?

It’s enough to make me want to drink a glass or two of wine. Rosé, of course.

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Food and Wine in St.-Emilion

One of the great pleasures of visiting France is spending an afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking inexpensive wine, and pairing it with simple, honest food that's as delicious as it is affordable.

Check out the video after the jump to see what I mean. It was shot in St.-Emilion during one of the quietest, most pleasant afternoons of the trip.

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