Wine Review Wednesday: New Year's Eve Edition

Viña Montes Purple Angel 2007, Colchagua Valley, Chile

There’s real truth in advertising here: The deep, opaque purple is the first thing you notice, a shimmering, glass-staining color remarkable in its own right. It smells like classic carmenère with an added dose of intensity: Concentrated spiced plums and dark cherries are balanced out by notes of grilled green pepper, spice, blackberry, black cherry, cigar tobacco, and a touch of eucalyptus. For all the richness and palate-coating texture of the wine, it’s an almost salty quality to the attack that first jumps out, a mineral spine that runs throughout this otherwise black cherry- and cherry liqueur-expressive wine. With air, the fruit turns sweeter and more dominant, making this much more approachable right now than it implies right out of the bottle. This is one for the cellar, and with time, the oak, beautifully concentrated fruit, and spice and licorice notes will integrate to create a wine of even greater complexity. Drink 3 - 7 years. 92% carmenère, 8% petit verdot.

Montes Star Angel Syrah 2007, Paso Robles

On the nose, this reminds me of a particularly nice brunch: Toast and blackberry compote and bacon that, for all its depth, remains fresh and bright. The palate shows loads of sweet blackberry fruit, with a ripeness that stays focused and balanced. There’s also licorice and hints of star anise here as well, and this follows through to the finish where it’s joined by cocoa powder and black cherry liqueur with more black licorice and a touch of mesquite. Very well-made, generous and large in scale, yet still focused. Solid potential for short- to medium-term aging, but with this expressive fruit, I’d have a hard time resisting it sooner. Drink now - 5 years.

Montes Star Angel Red Wine 2007, Paso Robles

Darker color, but still not quite opaque. More subtle nose here, with garrigue flashing through here and there between the cherry fruit. There’s also a creamy note here that softens it up at the edges, almost like a nice bacon cream with a hint of sweetness. Again, very sweet fruit here, and the oak is a bit more apparent, with cinnamon and clove spicing it up, as well as Chinese five spice, cigar tobacco, cocoa powder, and hazelnuts. Dusty tannins and oak character that still need to be integrated more fully imply a long-lived wine, 5 - 12 years at least, but again, with the fruit here, it’ll be tough to resist for that long. Buy several and see what promises to be an excellent, interesting evolution. 94% syrah, 4% grenache, 2% mourvedre.

J Cuvée 20, Sonoma

Very attractive laser-point bubbles and a nose that speaks of toast with butter and lemon crème fraîche lead to a palate that sings with bright acidity and excellent concentration, as well as spun sugar, candied lemon, and bright minerality. Its yeast notes really come through on the finish, which itself is tinged with that lemony acidity of the mid-palate. This is a beautiful example of what California sparkling wine is capable of: Intensity, vinosity, and a promise of further evolution. Drink over the next 2 - 4 years, but it’s delicious right now.

J Brut Rosé, Sonoma

Very subtle, unexpectedly transparent nose here that whispers of mushroom and raspberry and a bit of toasted brioche. The palate is creamy despite its bright acidity, and notes of concentrated raspberry, red cherry, and cream come through. This is all about subtlety and transparency, and it succeeds very well. Drink now, and definitely enjoy with food.

Porto Kopke Colheita 1986 (bottled in 2005)

The lightness and transparency of the honeyed amber color here is remarkable. On the nose, it’s gorgeously lifted, with spice and mushroom components that find their counterparts in a subtle florality, all of it carried along a rich, round layer of nougat: Amazing how this runs the gamut from masculine to feminine in just one whiff. This is astoundingly delicate on the palate, with spice and the barest intimation of red berry fruit darting in and out of the spotlight, and joined by orange, candied orange peel, brown sugar, aromatic spices, and flowers. This is a complex, seamless, endlessly evolving Colheita. The finish, all toffee and honey and dried apricot, goes on for a minute, and only slowly recedes first into even greater subtlety, then a whisper, then a beguiling memory of a remarkable wine. This Port is like a ballet dance of nuance--a sweet wine not defined by its sweetness--and shows that tawnies can be some of the most elegant wines in the world. Remarkable, and utterly delicious.

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Finally, with New Years Eve just two days away, I’ve included below some highlights from the Wine Media Guild rosé Champagne tasting I attended in New York at the beginning of the month. [Thanks to Ed McCarthy for presenting a fantastic program, as always.]

Among non-vintage bottlings, the Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé, as always, was a beautifully crafted wine with plenty of pastry crust, red berry fruit, and cream--perfect for starting off the night’s celebrations on the right foot. Ayala Brut Rosé Majeur, like the Feuillatte, delivered a lot of wine for relatively little money: The strawberry here is addictive. Ariston Fils Brut Rosé was a standout, its crystal-clear wild strawberry and raspberry character framed by an intense vinosity. Bruno Paillard Brut Rosé Première Cuvée, while a bit more money, was a winner: With deep, candied strawberry and cherry fruit, a note of warm brown sugar, and a long finish, it was great on its own and even better with food. Delamotte Brut Rosé showed a solidly integrated character that included mushrooms, flowers, and more aromatic truffles: Excellent. Charles Heidsieck Brut Rosé Réserve was round, lush, and structured, with a beam of minerality providing backbone. Pol Roger Brut Rosé was a taut, elegant expression of pinot noir.

Vintage standouts included the Charles Gardet Rosé 2001, and exceptionally vinous wine whose maturity sang through with brown spice, leather, and truffles, and whose pinot noir character really came to the fore. The Gosset Célébris Brut Rosé 2003 was surprisingly--and charmingly--bright and structured given its vintage. Taitinger Comtes de Champagne Brut Rosé 2004, while still quite young and fruit-driven, demonstrated ample potential for development in coming years. Perrier-Jouët “Fleur de Champagne” Brut Rosé 2002, while expensive, was one of my wines of the tasting, a bright bubbly that reminded me of strawberry jam on whole wheat toast, and whose almost tannic structure promises a long life ahead. And the Charles Heidsieck Brut Rosé 1999, with its graphite and mushroom notes, is just now hitting its stride and utterly impossible to stop sipping.

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Wine Review Wednesday: Christmas Week

This week, I’ve ordered the wines as they’d appear in a meal: We start with three sparklers, move on to a lovely Tuscan white and red, head over to the Rhone for a Crozes-Hermitage, continue south to Argentina for a big, juicy red blend, and finish off with a California cabernet that, though drinking very well right now, still has plenty of time left to evolve in the bottle.

Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut Cava

With its appealing light straw color and pinpoint lacing, this has always been a Cava of elegance and excellent value (and, now, a new label). It speaks of bright green apple, citrus, and a hint of nuts, but it’s primarily a fruit-driven bottle. On the finish, a zing of minerality comes through, which, with the mouth-watering acidity and overall crisp character, provides excellent backbone. As always, this is a very good everyday sparkler, refreshing and food-friendly.

La Cave de Die Jaillance Cremant de Bordeaux “Cuvee de l’Abbaye” Brut

What a lovely, bright sparkler: Grapefruit, warmed honey, vanilla creme Anglaise, and something a touch waxy mingle to create a nose that’s both unfamiliar and deeply comforting. The palate explodes with sweet citrus fruit both in the grapefruit and Mandarin orange family, as well as a taut minerality, ginger, and well-balanced acidity that lend this sparkler a sense of seriousness. Let this one sit on the counter for 10 minutes after taking it our of the fridge: When the edge of the chill comes off it, a beautiful bass note of brioche pumps through, leading to a finish rich with that Anglaise from the nose. Very, very well made, and a wonderful option both for New Years or, for that matter, any time you want to treat yourself.

La Cave de Die Jaillance Cuvee Imperiale Clairette de Die

Very intense nose of concentrated honey suckle, orange blossom, and other warm-weather flowers, with and edging of orange oil. It’s sweet and concentrated on the palate, too, with pronounced notes of spice, honeycomb, and candied apple and nuts that follow through to the finish. This is a nice wine for rich cheeses or to ring in the New Year with.

Banfi Centine White 2008, Toscana

There’s an unexpected floral note to the nose here, and aromatic lift that speaks of peaches and orange blossom, and in that way implicitly references summertime. There’s also a hint of something a touch spicy, which itself adds to the wine’s sense of freshness. This blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and pinot grigio is very clean on the palate, with well-balanced acidity that keeps the peach and apricot notes fresh. There’s some apple here too, as well as a hint of something a bit honeyed. Hazelnuts and a touch of nougat sing on the finish, which still remains nicely mouth-watering. What a charming wine, and a serious bottle for the money. Drink now with anything, or with nothing at all.

Banfi Centine Red 2007, Toscana

Lots of red cherries and ripe fraises de bois on the nose of this fabulously food-friendly Tuscan blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot. There’s also a bit of minerality here, as well as cured black Sicilian olives and a hint of dried Mediterranean herbs and chocolate. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine boasts plenty of red and darker berry fruit and ripe cherries, but also touches of coffee grinds and, on the finish, a bit of smoke and leather. Well-made and complex, lovely integrated tannins, and an excellent value. Drink in the next three years.

Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage “Les Hauts du Fief” 2006

Such a pretty, accurate nose. Black raspberries, blackberries, asphalt, and something a bit funky, like grinding peppercorns in a barn (in a good way!). With some time, a gentler face starts to show itself, the pepper taking on a more perfumed note and the fruit resolving into a riper, sweeter style. On the palate, this is appealingly elegant, with fully integrated tannins, a silky texture, and subtle fruit that indicates that this is a wine at its peak. There are some tea notes on the finish, as well as a lingering hint of earthiness lending it all a sense of richness underpinning its elegance. Really good stuff.

Kaiken “Corte” Malbec - Bonarda - Petit Verdot 2008, Mendoza

A beautiful, glistening opaque purple color with a center verging on black. The implications of that appearance come through on the nose, which is well-lifted by blackberries, black cherries, smoky plums, and hoisin sauce. There’s also something reminiscent of tarragon in there, perhaps a bit of the cabernet’s freshness poking through. On the palate, the fruit is sweet and ripe, with those cherries taking the lion’s share of attention. Still, this isn’t just a fruit-expressive bottling: Sweet tobacco, black licorice, bonfire, and a touch of birch bark add depth and complexity. Very well-made, and compulsively drinkable. Could go three more years, but there’s no need to wait.

SIMI Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard 2007, Alexander Valley

The minerality is the first thing you’ll notice here, a terroir-driven nose that indicates a wine that, year after year, is firmly rooted to this particular patch of land. There’s bright currants and spice there too, though it’s still tightly wound, practically coiled to explode with more time in the bottle. The palate here is remarkably similar to the nose, though there’s a bit more lushness to the fruit than you might expect, more cherries as well as tea and oak spice that still needs some time to integrate fully. All of it is buttressed by tannins that, though attractively sweet, still have 7 - 10 more years of life to give this excellent wine whose future in the cellar is very bright indeed. Drink now with food and a good decanting, or hold onto it for even more pleasure.

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Wine Review Wednesday: Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace Brut Rose'

This is yet another great example of the extraordinary sparkling wines that are produced throughout France, and a perfect bubbly for the foods of the season, too. The nose is rich with aromas of ripe cherries, homemade strawberry jam, and the slightest hint, surprisingly, of tarragon hovering in the background. The palate sings with more ripe red cherries, wet stones, and something a touch smoky. All of this is brought to even more vivid life with a singing acidity that’s both bright and perfectly balanced. I almost want to have a barbecue this afternoon for no other reason than to throw some salmon on the grill to enjoy alongside this. What a well-crafted, thoroughly gulpable wine. Pinot Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc.

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Weekend Wine

Some weeks, the stars align just right--the universe, we could say, decides to throw me a bone--and I have the very good fortune to taste wines that remind me exactly what makes this juice so special, and so different from anything else we can drink.

As I reported here on Tuesday, Monday evening’s Wine Media Guild dinner afforded me the opportunity to taste everything from Grand Cru white Burgundy and 60-year-old white Port to 1994 Jordan and Cos d’Estournel--and a whole bunch of great bottles in between.

Wednesday night, at the Wine Chateau Piscataway store, was the first of what hopefully will be many Sip and Twit tastings. Over the course of those three hours, we sampled five different bottlings from Iron Horse, including the Classic Vintage Brut 2005, Wedding Cuvee 2006, Unoaked Chardonnay 2007, Estate Chardonnay 2008, and Estate Pinot Noir 2007.

Then, last night, my wife and I enjoyed dinner with close friends, and Miguel Lecuona (who writes the fantastic City Wine Journal), brought along some seriously delicious treats, including a Chateau Palmer 1970, Chateau Latour à Pomerol 2001, and Chateau d’Yquem 1995.

I didn’t want to brush my teeth when I got home.

But the weekend is almost here, the temps are expected to rise, and the time, it seems, has arrived to start thinking about what to drink as the end of the work-week rolls around.

Personally, I’m a big believer in popping the corks--or unscrewing the caps--on bottles that are fun, relatively straightforward, and pair well with the foods of the season.

My friend Ben Weinberg, an internationally published wine writer, focuses on the wines of the season in the latest installment of his newsletter Unfiltered, Unfined. In this issue, he notes that summer is almost here, and the “change of seasons seems to alter other elements of life, as well. Meals tend to be quick and light and our beverages follow suit. Wine is no different, and an important part of vinous enjoyment is cracking open bottles that particularly complement warm weather, lighter food, and long, outdoor evenings.”

He goes on to recommend everything from solid sparklers to popular but still-underappreciated rosés to reds that will work wonders as the mercury climbs. Both Ben’s specific recommendations and the guiding philosophies behind them are excellent, and should really get you thinking about what to open this weekend.

Take a look, pop some corks, and enjoy the next couple of days off.

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Wine Pairing for Vegetarians and Vegans

With Memorial Day just around the corner, and the official kick-off to barbecue season and summertime following quickly on its heals, I’ll be offering wine recommendations throughout next week, in addition to the usual assortment of links, articles, and commentaries.

As a lead-up to that, though, I wanted to link an article that ran in the San Francisco Chronicle late last month on wine pairing for vegetarians and vegans. This is a subject that not only often goes under-reported, but that also gets mis-reported: Just because a person doesn’t eat meat or other animal products does not mean that they can’t find some remarkable wine pairings.

The article begins: “It's the classic pairing mantra: red with beef, white with chicken or fish. But what if the winemaker is a vegetarian?”

This is a big issue for vegetarians, especially this time of year, with its focus on grilled meats and other quintessentially summery foods.

But, “as winemaker Thomas Houseman of Anne Amie Vineyards in Carlton, Ore., points out...’Anything that you can pair with meat, if you think about it stylistically, it's easy enough to pair with either vegetables or meat alternatives,’ says Houseman, a former cook and a vegetarian since high school.”

So what are the tricks? Read the full article, linked up right here, for a complete rundown. But for a quick primer, take a look at the tips below, which also ran with the article.

“Cooking styles can be a hint. If the traditional pairing is roasted meat, try roasted root vegetables instead. Instead of duck and Pinot Noir, try a platter of oven-roasted root vegetables. A meaty grilled portobello mushroom is another option.

“Winemaker Thomas Houseman likes Pinot Noir with french fries. To go all out, toss the fries with truffle oil, salt and maybe a dusting of fennel pollen.

“Pizza and rustic Tempranillo can be good partners. The same is true of a vegan pizza made with lots of vegetable toppings and soy cheese, says winemaker Jon Grant, a vegan.

“For a challenging pairing like asparagus or artichoke, Grant adds lemon and salt to offset the umami, or savoriness, of the vegetables and bring the flavors into balance.

“When in doubt, try sparkling wine.”

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The Science of Wine

As much as we enjoy wine, and despite all the rapturous poetics penned by everyone from Aristophanes (“When men drink, then they are rich and successful and win lawsuits and are happy and help their friends...”) to Goethe (“Wine rejoices the heart of man and joy is the mother of all virtues.”), to the uber-descriptive lines of modern critics like Robert Parker (“This full-bodied, wide, thick, focused, harmonious, and intense wine releases amazingly powerful layers of candied black cherries and blackberries,” he wrote of the 1996 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache), wine, in the end, is science.

Takes the romance out of it, no?

Two recent articles made this clear. The first, reported widely around the world, indicates that even something as seemingly innocuous as the color of the room in which a wine is tasted can have an impact on how it is perceived. British paper The Telegraph reports that “Drinkers' brains are tricked into thinking a glass of white wine is better and more expensive tasting when exposed to the red or blue background lighting than those in rooms with green or white background lighting.”

This isn’t to say, of course, that bad wine can be saved by flattering lighting, or that bad lighting will ruin a perfectly lovely bottle, but it is food for thought: Context, like with so much else in life, is one of the keys to how an experience is perceived, wine included.

The second article ran recently in The Wall Street Journal, and is a very good follow-up to recent posts here about Champagne. It begins: “There are 20 million bubbles in a bottle of champagne and every one of them alters the taste, scent and fluid dynamics of the sparkling wine, say researchers studying the chemistry of carbonation and the physics of fizz.”

And while analyzing the bubbles in Champagne might seem akin to trying to wrap your mind around how the punctuation in Shakespeare’s sonnets affects meaning, it does have its benefits: Specifically, a greater understanding of what makes Champagne so special.

“[The] experiments, described recently in Science, the American Scientist and the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, reveal the unexpected ways in which the microscopic and molecular behavior of carbonation make champagne tingle in the nose and tap-dance on the tongue. Champagne owes much of its magic -- its savor, scent and glow -- to the micro-mechanics of CO2 bubbles, they reported.”

It continues: “Every bottle of champagne is a blend of many wines, but it owes its signature sparkle entirely to pent-up carbon dioxide. In fact, an average bottle of champagne contains about five or six times its volume in carbon dioxide, so compressed that when the champagne cork pops, it typically kicks out of the bottle's neck at about 30 miles per hour, Dr. Liger-Belair says. The champagne will actually taste better, he says, if the cork can be released with a more subdued CO2 sigh.”

The lesson here? Enjoyment of wine is a personal and subjective experience, but it is not wholly separated from science. Which is a good thing: Understanding typically leads to greater pleasure in the long run. And that’s something to which we all can raise a glass--full of bubbles, of course.

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Champagne: It's Good for You!

There’s a potentially severe snowstorm heading towards the east coast this weekend, which provides the perfect excuse for locking the door, cranking up the heat, lining up a bunch of movies to watch...and celebrating the break from the routine with a bottle of bubbly.

Precious few treats in life are quite as charming as opening a bottle of Champagne for absolutely no reason at all. And I honestly can’t think of a better reason to pop the cork on a bottle than being forced to stay in the entire day.

If, however, you’re one of those people who feels bad about a bit of luxury for no reason at all, then here’s your excuse to find some fizz this weekend: Champagne is good for you.

Honest.

“British academics have found that champagne is packed with polyphenols - plant chemicals thought to widen the blood vessels, easing the strain on your heart and brain,” reported British newspaper The Daily Mail.

The article continued: “And researchers believe the health benefits aren't limited to the expensive stuff but are also found in cheaper alternatives such as cava and prosecco.”

Fans of fizzy have always known that a glass or two relaxes them. But now, we finally have scientific proof that it does more than that, benefiting you on levels that are not immediately felt.

So whether you pour yourself and your snowbound companions glasses from one of the great Champagne houses, or something a bit simpler and less money, the point is clear: We all have something to celebrate this weekend...regardless of the weather forecast.

I’ll raise a glass to that.

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Time to Take Stock

I’ll be posting my Thanksgiving wine advice tomorrow, but today I wanted to focus on some end-of-the-year housekeeping. Because this week traditionally signals the beginning of the end of the year (that extended stretch between Thanksgiving and New Years often seems like one really long week, one really long meal), thoughts naturally turn to the past, and what we’ve accomplished (or, in this case, had to drink) in 2009.

Back in January, The Wall Street Journal’s Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher wrote a column called “For 2009, a To-Do List for Wine.” In it, they offer 20 achievable goals that will make your wine life better or, at the very least, more interesting. Some of my favorite items include trying a wine from a different country, opening a sparkler at home for no reason other than that you want it, attending a restaurant wine dinner, and trying wines that you haven’t loved all that much in the past.

This is the time of year to take stock of what you’ve done to improve your wine life in the eleven months that have passed since ’08 rolled over into ’09. (The Journal recently posted letters and emails from readers highlighting what they have done since the original column was published--it’s good inspiration.) Which is all to say this: Despite the advice you’ll inevitably get during the holidays (including here, starting tomorrow), it’s always a good idea to make some changes yourself. Break free from wine orthodoxy this holiday season, and get a head-start on setting yourself up for an interesting, tasty 2010. Experiment with wines and pairings. Explore the wine world. And, most of all, have fun every time you pop the cork of a bottle. After all, that’s (hopefully) why you’re opening it up in the first place.

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What Temperature Works Best?

It’s important to serve your wines at the right temperature, especially this time of year. The heat and humidity of summer demand a careful consideration of how you chill and serve your wine, whether you’re dealing with reds, whites, sparklers, or sweets. After all, an overly cold white won't taste like much at all, and a room-temperature red, with all its typical cooked fruit and alcohol, is pretty much the opposite of refreshing, and definitely not what you need these days.

While the temperature at which you enjoy a wine is a personal matter, most people still drink their reds too warm and their whites too cold. So while the chart below, published by Consumer Reports, is just a guide (they seem to make the assumption, for example, that all Chardonnays fit into the “heavier” category, which is clearly not the case), it nonetheless is a good starting point to begin exploring how you personally prefer your wines to be served. And, hopefully, the beginning of an even more enjoyable wine experience.

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The Wines of Austria

I’m back in Philadelphia from the Austrian Wine Marketing Board’s Austrian Wine Summit 2009, and am, to be honest, going to have a very difficult time containing my enthusiasm for the wine, food, and hospitality I experienced there. I’ve hinted at it before, but I’m going to say it plainly: Austria is one of the single most exciting places in the world right now for wine.

From wines you’ve heard of (Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Zweigelt) to ones that are perhaps less familiar (Zierfandler, Muskateller), Austria is simply exploding with fabulous grapes, world-class vineyards, and a range of styles, from white and red to sweet and sparkling, that rivals anywhere on the planet.

Between last Thursday and this past Sunday, I took dozens and dozens of tasting notes and shot several hours of video, so it’s going to take some time to work my way through it all. In the coming days and weeks, however, keep checking back for more from my trip to Austria.

For now, however, I’ll leave you with this video. It was shot immediately following our lecture and tasting last Friday at the Schloss Hof in Weinviertel on the wines of Niederösterreich, or Lower Austria. The Schloss Hof is considered one of the most exquisite Baroque buildings in the world, and at one point was even owned by Empress Maria Theresia. Learning about and tasting the wines of the region in a historically significant and absolutely magnificent palace like this was easily one of the most amazing experiences of my wine life.

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...And One More Use for Bubbly

With the weekend upon us, and, for me at least, an entire Saturday afternoon to sit on the couch watching sports, reading the paper, and mindlessly snacking, this is the perfect time to recommend yet another use for Champagne: Pairing partner for potato chips.

That's right: Chips.

Think about it: Champagne goes with classic potato blinis, right? And paired with French fries it just sings. So why not potato chips? It's a natural match...

My personal favorites are the higher-end ones--they tend to have more potato flavor. But, really, any chips will do (just avoid the flavored varieties). And I guarantee that, paired with a nice glass of bubbly and an afternoon on the couch, they will help make for a Saturday to remember.

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Champagne and...Chinese Food?

Because of the nature of my job, I don't get to spend too many nights at home with my wife. So when I do have the opportunity to hang out on the couch with her for a few hours before the craziness of the next work day is upon us, I tend to gravitate toward comfort food-type dinners. And one of my all-time favorite dinnertime treats is Chinese food and Champagne.

Now, this might sound counterintuitive, but the match is as close to perfect as you're likely to find. Don't get me wrong: If someone were to offer me a bowl piled high with caviar alongside a bottle of bubbly, I wouldn't turn them down. That combination ranks right up there with foie gras and Sauternes, or classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon with a simply grilled steak. But I would absolutely include Champagne and classic Chinese food in the Pantheon of great pairings...

(NB: China is a huge country that is home to a wide range of regional cuisines, so I am not suggesting that Champagne will pair perfectly with all Chinese food. The dishes I'm referring to here are the familiar ones that so many in this country have grown up with. To imply that China's cuisines are monolithic would be tantamount to claiming that the food is the same throughout the United States, which, of course, is untrue.)

So why does this partnership work so well? There are a number of reasons: The bubbles cleanse the oils from the tongue, the high acid in the wine cuts right through any fat in the dish, and Champagne's yeasty, bready quality matches beautifully with soy sauce.

The other night, I stopped by one of my favorite restaurants in Philadelphia's Chinatown and brought home a bowl of roasted pork and roasted duck noodle soup, eggplant and chicken in black bean sauce, and a spring roll. Paired with a bottle of Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV, it was a match made in foodie heaven. And a great way to spend a few hours at home.

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Peanut Butter and Jelly

With the latest food scare upon us—peanut butter of all things!—I’d like to recommend a replacement of sorts for that much-loved, and now all-but-verboten, lunchtime staple.

Actually, I can’t claim responsibility for this one; that honor goes to Scott Turnbull, the brilliant Sommelier at the amazing Fountain Restaurant in Philadelphia’s Four Seasons Hotel. Toward the end of the exquisite anniversary dinner that my wife and I enjoyed there, Scott followed the waiters over to our table bearing a mischievous smile and a mysterious bottle...

Farra D’Orazio, the Director of Public Relations at the hotel, was well aware of my wife’s peanut butter obsession, and had arranged for a special dessert that would play right into her every sweet-tooth tendency: Baked chocolate and peanut butter napoleon with raspberry coulis. And Scott, in a wildly successful effort to further clarify the peanut-butter-and-jelly nature of the dish, had brought along a bottle of Banfi’s Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Acqui, the sweet, perfumed, sparkling Piedmontese red that far too many people still don’t know enough about.

Brachetto d’Acqui is one of those hidden gems that offers ten times more pleasure than its price or lack of familiarity would seem to indicate. And the Rosa Regale bottling, with its rose petal and raspberry perfume, is that rare wine that’s both stimulating to the intellect and thoroughly, blissfully gulpable.

My wife liked the earrings I bought her, but she loved her peanut butter and jelly dessert. Sometimes, jewelry just can’t compete with a perfect pairing.

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