Despite the cerebral nature of so many of the wines of Burgundy, I have always had an emotional soft spot for Domaine Pierre Morey. Their balance between drinkability and regal potential for longevity, as well as the expressiveness of the various terroirs that they achieve, seduce me every time.
My favorites from the tasting of Morey’s 2006 white Burgundies at Le Bernardin include the Meursault, a vanilla-rich, waxy-apricot, vaguely floral wine whose fine balancing acidity provides a far more linear structure than the nose lets on. I also love the Meursault “Les Tessons,” which I tasted for a column on 2006 white Burgundy in John Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet, and which seduced me with its lemon curd, almond skin, and mineral character...
Finally, the Grand Cru Batard-Montrachet is amazingly seductive, even at this early stage in its evolution, with its wonderfully integrated and perfumed oak, smoke, and toast notes on the nose. Like the Meursault, though, the acid keeps it all in check: It’s immediately bright and lively on the attack, with a walnut-rich mid-palate and a finish that keeps coming on in mouth-watering waves. This is a wine for the long haul, and should keep on getting better for 15 – 20 years.
As is always the case with great Burgundy, though, waiting is the most difficult part. Who ever said wine was easy?
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