They say--whoever they are--that good old Gamay eventually turns to something resembling decent Pinot. I’ve only experienced this phenomenon once or twice before, which made the bottle of Georges Duboeuf Régnié 2005 such a charming surprise. The color is the first indication that it’s a fully mature wine, the center of the juice a deep, rich brown with reddish-orange hints at the rim. On the nose, it’s all caramel, toffee, dried violets, mushrooms, and, unexpectedly, dried apricots. These brown notes follow through to the palate, which is further complicated by dried cherries, cedar, and smoke. And while this ’05 is at the far end of its evolution--drink now or forever hold your peace--and though the mid-palate is starting to fall apart a touch, it is a delicious, thought-provoking wine in its own right, and a great example of how well good Gamay can age.