Showing posts with label wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wine. Show all posts

Thursday, April 9, 2009

The Importance of Aroma

In matters of taste, there’s nothing more important than the sense of smell. Wine lovers have known this forever: The lip of a good wine glass that’s narrower than the widest part of the bowl, the swirling, the sniffing—it’s all done in order to enhance a wine’s smell, and, therefore, its flavor.

These days, the same attention is being paid to spirits, too—at least in the right hands. We’re not talking about bathtub-sized, quintuple-distilled vodka martinis here, but cocktails that are crafted in such a way that their multiple layers of character all have the opportunity to shine through. Which, in the arithmetic of all things imbibed—be it wine or spirits or tea or coffee—equals more, and better, flavor.

I recently sat down with Tom Pittakas, the Beverage Director at Alison two, Chef Alison Barshak’s fantastic follow-up restaurant to her successful and wildly popular Alison at Blue Bell in the suburbs of Philadelphia. Tom is one of the most careful, considerate, knowledgeable beverage professionals I know, and during the course of our conversation, he told me about a new technique he’s using at the restaurant’s bar. And though this one is obviously for spirits, the underlying principle is the same as it is for wine: Aroma is key. Rather than try to describe it, though, I’ll let Tom show you himself.



After shooting, I tasted the cocktail, and was blown away by the careful interaction of flavors on my tongue and the persistent aroma that literally clung to the sides of the glass, enhancing the entire experience.

The lesson is simple: In wine and spirits, as in everything we drink, focusing on smell is one of the surest paths to enjoyment and pleasure.
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Friday, March 6, 2009

Maybe They Just Need a Drink...

Decanter.com reported today that the anti-alcohol brigades have been stirring the lees, as it were, in France, too:

"The French wine industry is preparing for a tense weekend as the General Assembly in Paris continues to debate its controversial healthcare bill...

Of particular concern to winemakers is...an amendment to 'ban all free distribution of alcoholic drinks in a promotional capacity'. Aimed at stopping open bars for the under-25s, it doesn't distinguish among types of alcohol and it would effectively ban free wine tastings at chateaux, wine fairs and events such as 'en primeur' week."...

Decanter goes on to note that the chance of the General Assembly actually banning such free samplings is slim. But the fact remains that, regardless of how widely accepted wine may be in a particular culture, or how great its social and health benefits are, there will always be people who feel the need to pontificate on the evils of all things fermented. So while I'm holding my breath this weekend as I wait for the latest developments in France, I'll also be hoisting a number of glasses of good wine. Because no matter how hard the naysayers fight, one fact remains unarguably clear: There's nothing wrong with enjoying good wine responsibly. In fact, it's often one of the best ways to remind yourself of the good things in life.
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Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Three Standout Nero d'Avolas


I enjoyed ten Nero d’Avolas at the "Taste of Italy" seminar and tasting in New York on February 19th. The three below are not only standouts, but also represent the range and depth that you can expect from this up-and-coming grape variety.

Casa di Grazia Gradiva Collectio Nero d’Avola IGT Sicilia 2006 – This striking estate-grown Nero just sings with fresh, rich notes of wild herbs, blackberries, fraises de bois, graphite, and pepper. In all, it’s remarkably self-contained, and should keep on improving over the next 2 – 7 years...

Cantina Viticultori Associati Aynat Nero d’Avola IGT Sicilia 2006 – A more modern Nero, this one buttressed by dark, ripe berry fruit, still-apparent oak, a hint of mushrooms, and a haunting note of licorice on the finish. It’s a brooding Nero that still needs time for its disparate parts to settle into a sense of integration, but 3 – 8 years of cellaring should really reward the patient among us.

Feudo Principi di Butera Deliella Nero d’Avola IGT Sicilia 2005 – Reminds me of warm focaccia with its thyme, sage, and rosemary aromas. The silky, well-integrated tannins, ripe cherry, and subtle hint of plum on the mid-palate provide a sense of density to this surprisingly lithe bottling.
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Monday, February 23, 2009

Four Decades of Amarone


Amarone is one of Italy’s most beloved wines. Something about its rich character, power, and, in the best cases, surprising finesse, speaks to wine lovers on a deeply personal level.

I recently attended an Amarone tasting and lunch co-hosted by the Wine Media Guild and Sandro Boscaini, president of Masi, one of the greatest producers of Amarone. It was held at New York’s Felidia restaurant, and involved a one-hour tasting of Amarones going back to the early 1970’s, followed by a lunch at which the wines were paired with Felidia’s stellar food...


If there was a single lesson that stands out for me, it’s that the range of styles in which Amarone is made is astounding, and that the age-worthiness of the best of them rivals that of the other great wines of Italy.

Here are my tasting notes for a few of the highlights:

Masi Amarone Classico "Costasera" 2005 – Though showing classic notes of coffee and gently raisinated fruit, the richness of this young red is offset by a wonderfully refreshing acidity. Dangerously drinkable.

Masi Amarone Classico "Mazzano" 1997 – This single-vineyard offering from the fabulous 1997 vintage is nothing short of beguiling: Mature, complex, concentrated aromas of exotic brown spices practically leap from the glass. The finish lasts for well over a minute.

Bertani Amarone Classico 1972 – Fully mature and perfectly structured, offering a deep well of black pepper, grilled green bell peppers, bitter chocolate, cardamom, and a touch of thyme, all of it wrapped up in a texture of pure velvet.

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