Roero Arneis is one of those far-too-unheralded grapes whose time is finally due: Widespread recognition has been too long in coming, especially considering the many pleasures it offers at generally reasonable prices.
Last winter, before sitting down to a Vietti wine lunch at New York’s Grayz restaurant, I enjoyed the producer’s Roero Arneis 2007, which was not only a great aperitif, but also fantastic with the entire range of hors d’oeuvres on offer.
It started off with aromas of melon and a soft flowery perfume held in check by a distinct minerality on the nose. Sip after sip featured addictive orange-pith notes that were carried by a surprisingly lively texture. One of the other attendees described its mouthfeel as “edgy,” and I’d have to agree: It practically danced on the tongue. Too bad more people don’t drink Roero Arneis on a regular basis—they’re missing out on one of the most easily enjoyable pleasures of Italy’s Piedmont region.
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